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THE HISTORY OF PIZZA
Pizza has evolved into
its current form very gradually. It bears the mark of many ancient
cultures centered around the Mediterranean sea.
Pizza has undergone a very slow process of evolution over the
centuries, but it is quite certainly the cultures of the Mediterranean
that deserve credit for creating it. Historical records suggest that
people in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome all ate things that are very
similar to our modern pizza crust. Ancient Egyptians had a custom of
celebrating the Pharaoh's birthday with a flat bread seasoned with
herbs, and Herodotus, a Greek historian described Babylonian recipes
that are very similar to contemporary pizza crust. The word pizza may
be a derivative of the Latin word picea, a word which the
Romans used to describe the blackening of bread in an oven.
PREDECESSORS OF PIZZA IN THE MIDDLE AGES
Pizza most clearly took the form that we are now familiar with in
pre-Renaissance Naples, a large city in central Italy. Poor peasants
used their limited ingredients (wheat flour, olive
oil, lard, cheese and natural herbs) to make a seasoned, flat bread
garnished with cheese. Mozzarella cheese was one benefit of an
invasion from Asian peoples, who brought the water buffalo to Italy.
Today, the best mozzarella cheese is still made from water buffalo
milk.
The word pizza, as it is currently spelled, also emerged some
time in the Middle Ages. It was used to describe both sweet and salty
pies that were becoming increasingly popular among Italian aristocracy.
THE FEARED AMERICAN TOMATO
Europeans returning from Peru and Mexico brought with them what was
originally thought to be a very poisonous fruit: the tomato. Precisely
how they decided that the tomato was actually edible is unclear, but
as Southern Europeans overcame their suspicions, the tomato became
enormously popular. Today, of course, the tomato is a crucial
component of Mediterranean cuisine, and is still used in most pizza
recipes.
NAPLES BECOMES THE PIZZA CAPITOL OF THE WORLD
Naples gradually assumed its reputation as having the finest pizza in
Italy throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. In the 19th century,
pizza became a popular fast food.
Before pizzerias became very popular, however, street vendors
(typically young boys) walked around the city with small tin stoves
on their heads, calling out to attract customers. While undoubtedly
uncomfortable for these 19th-century delivery boys, this street-vending
method made pizza ever-more popular, and paved the way for the opening
of the world's first pizzeria.
The world's first true pizzeria, "Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba", opened
in 1830 and is still in business today at Via Port'Alba 18 in Naples. Pizzerias in this era usually included a large brick oven, a marble counter where the crust was prepared, and a shelf lined with ingredients. Contemporary Neapolitan pizzerias are prepared in the same way they were 100 years ago. The large brick ovens make the pizzerias uncomfortably hot in every season except winter, but the unique flavor of these brick-oven pizzas is unmatched. Pizzaioli (makers of pizza) often assemble the entire pizza on a marble counter right before the customer's eyes.
Some writers have considered the pizza an invention of the man who is
responsible for making it an international phenomenon (but the fact
that this man worked in a pizzeria makes it difficult to call
him the father of pizza!). In 1889, Rafaele Esposito of the Pizzeria
di Pietro e Basta Cosi (now called Pizzeria Brandi) baked pizza
especially for the visit of King Umberto I and Queen Margherita.
To make the pizza a little more patriotic-looking, Esposito used red
tomato sauce, white mozzarella cheese and green basil leaves as
toppings. Queen Margherita loved the pizza, and what eventually
became Pizza Margherita has since become an international standard.
Pizzeria Brandi, now more than 200 years old, still proudly displays
a royal thank-you note signed by Galli Camillo, "head of the table of
the royal household", dated June 1889.
Neapolitan pizza is still widely regarded as the best in the world, probably because of the fresh ingredients available to Neapolitan pizzerias: herbs, garlic, and tomatoes grown in
the rich volcanic ash of Vesuvius, and fresh mozzarella from water buffalo milk.
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